My mechanic has said its probably best to ignore it if it doesn’t affect cold starting but I am more inclined to replace all the plugs and the relay if the cost is not astronomical as I like things to be right. If the relay is sticking will I burn out all the glow is your relay fix a mod or were you just trying to save the cost of a new relay? Would this problem show up as a fault code? Be it a glow plug or faulty relay? I would probably get my mechanic to do any work on this car as I don’t really have the spare time and he has much more experience with these cars. It wasn’t a difficult job at all but they were both transverse engines. In this video I show you how to replace a faulty light/rain sensor on a Mercedes W164 ML-Class vehicle.Specifically, I am demonstrating this on a 2006 Merced. I have changed Glow plugs on a Vauxhall and a Ford before. Going back to my original questions, why is the warning light only coming on sometimes? Surely if the problem is a failed plug then it would now be on all the time? I drove the car today and I think it only happened once, possibly when the engine was cold. Plus, selling the car on with a g/plug problem isnt going to make an easy sale. The problem with leaving 'stuck' g/plugs in situ is that, apart from the annoying light always coming on, the old plug will build up layers of carbon on the tip over time, and this will make things even more difficult to remove the plug at a later date. There are good technicians and not so good one's and it's a sad fact that some dont take as much care as they should, anyway, removing the head to remove seized plugs is a good money earner. I replaced all mine very recently, and i tried to remove one with the engine cold just to see if it would undo, but it wouldnt budge with moderate force, but after i got the engine hot it undid very easily using less force than i did previously. so I'm back to figuring out how to remove the tank.Its possible (i stress possible) that the technician just drove your car into the workshop while it was still a cold engine, and went ahead to remove the g/plugs with the attitude ' they come out or they dont come out' While working on trying to remove the tank I did find 2 small wires that go up into some kind of a 'fixture' on the bottom of the tank - which I presume to be the elusive level sensor - but the tank needs to unmounted/removed in order to get better access to the sensor wiring/fixture. Hope someone can provide some advice on easing out the tank. The tank is mounted underneath on two rubber mounts which I think are just pressure fitted into the frame below - but I didn't want to use more than gentle pressure in case I broke something. This morning I undid the nut (on a threaded stud at the back of the tank) that holds in the coolant expansion tank and tried to ease out the tank but it stills seems to be holding tight. If the coolant temperature exceeds 248 degrees Fahrenheit (120 degrees Celsius), DO NOT DRIVE the vehicle. The light will illuminate when the sensor senses any level below the MIN level in the tank. Add Coolant - Determine coolant / antifreeze type and add fluid properly. Check Level - Determine the coolant / antifreeze level. Find Reservoir - Locate the coolant / antifreeze reservoir and clean it. Open the Hood - How to pop the hood and prop it open. or if a good quality 'normal' coolant such as something like "Prestone Premixed Long Life Antifreeze/Coolant" will do the job ? If the red coolant light is on you may have a faulty temperature gauge or the coolant level is too low. The Coolant Level Sensor is located on the back side of the Coolant Expansion Tank and it is not replaceable as it is integrated into the tank. Getting Started - Prepare for the repair. I double checked the manual: 'Coolant too hot'. All the sudden, the vehicle status message display shows one of the coolant messages ('thermometer floating on ocean' - you get the idea). FYI, ambient temperature: 96 F (hello Texas). Not sure if I need special antifreeze - eg. The car in question is an 08 M元50 (W164) w 105K miles. I'm inclined to pick up some antifreeze and top it up to see what happens. My repair guy, who knows his stuff, says that small level discrepancy shouldn't cause this problem - hence his suggestion it's a bad sensor. In deed my level is down about an inch (and a bit) when cold from the full level so I definitely hear what you're saying.
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